_JPG.jpg)
Semur-en-Auxois: The Fairytale Town in Burgundy You Never Heard Of
- 2 hours ago
- 3 min read
Dreaming of France but tired of the crowds? A place where medieval towers rise above a river of gold, where cobblestones echo with centuries of stories — without needing to rush, without the stress of airports, just you and the rolling Burgundian landscape outside the window...
That place is Semur-en-Auxois. And I can't quite believe it took me this long to find it.
Tucked into the lush folds of Burgundy, Semur is the kind of town that makes you wonder why it isn't on every travel list. Pink granite ramparts. A dramatic rocky peninsula encircled by the river Armançon. Streets so cosy and vine-draped that you'll find yourself walking them twice, just to make sure you didn't miss anything.
I discovered it on a slow train journey through Bourgogne — and it became one of my favourite stops in all of France.
My Favourite Things to Do in Semur-en-Auxois
Dinner at La Cuisine de la Fontaignotte
This one is non-negotiable. Book a table for the evening — the restaurant sits right below the ancient castle walls and the view is simply breathtaking. The food is wonderful, but honestly, you'll spend half the meal just staring out at those stone towers turning gold in the fading light. One of the most atmospheric dinners I've had in France.
Stay at Maison Jacey - a luxury apartment
A charming old apartment from the 19th century in the heart of the medieval town. It has that rare quality of feeling like you're staying in someone's beautiful home — exposed stone, creaky wooden floors, morning light filtering through old shutters. If you're weaving Semur into a wider Burgundy itinerary, this is the perfect overnight stay. Book here
Coffee & Something Sweet at Chez Elsa et Nicolas and Les Pâtisseries de Ninon
A little café with such a warm, local energy and the most incredible little sweet shop. Good pastries, friendly faces and none of the tourist polish at both of these charming spots. Exactly the kind of place that doesn't appear in any guidebook — you find it by wandering.
Pont Pinard at Sunset
Make your way to the Pont Pinard in the early evening and linger. The view of the old town reflected in the water, those pink stone towers glowing against the sky — it's one of those rare moments where you reach for your camera and then quietly put it away, because you just want to be fully present in it.
Stroll the Streets at Dusk
There's a timeless, almost dreamlike quality to Semur after the day-trippers leave. The light is low, the stone is old, the streets are quiet. Wander with no particular plan and see what you find.
Tout Près D'ici
A gorgeous little local flower and vegetable shop — the kind that makes you want to move here permanently. Pick up something beautiful and take it back to your apartment.
How to Get There by Train
I'm obsessed with train and travel all over slowly. Follow Rail Voyage for more slow journeys by rail.
Semur-en-Auxois is best reached by train to Montbard (on the Paris–Dijon line), followed by a short bus or taxi. It sits beautifully in the middle of a wider Burgundy train trip — I combined it with Dijon and Beaune and the pacing felt just right.
No flights. No car needed. Just the train, the vines and the kind of slow afternoon that stays with you long after you've left.
---
This article contains affiliate links — if you buy something from the links you support Rail Voyage & help us create more free guides like these. Thank you for your support!
Travelling Europe by train? My Interrail Guide covers everything you need to travel Europe beautifully by rail:
Come find me on Instagram at @therailvoyage — I share all the hidden corners of Europe I discover along the way.
Comments