11 Things Not to Miss on the Italian Riviera

From Portofino to Cinque Terre, discover 11 unforgettable experiences on Liguria's Italian Riviera — all reachable without a car, by train and boat

The first time I arrived on the Ligurian Riviera by train — watching the Mediterranean appear between two rocky hillsides, turquoise and impossibly blue — I understood immediately why this stretch of Italian coast has inspired painters, writers and dreamers for centuries.

The Italian Riviera sits in the region of Liguria, in the northwest of Italy and it is home to some of Europe's most iconic landscapes: the pastel-stacked villages of Cinque Terre, the glamorous little harbour of Portofino, the ancient fishing boats of Camogli. But it is also full of slower, quieter corners that most visitors rush straight past. The best part? You don't need a car. Almost everything here can be reached by train, boat or your own two feet.

Here are eleven things I'd never want to miss.

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1. Take the Boat to Portofino

The most beautiful way to arrive at Portofino is by boat from Santa Margherita or Rapallo — watching the pastel houses and lush forests grow larger as you glide across the water. It's one of those travel moments that genuinely takes your breath away, and it costs almost nothing.

2. Visit the charming fishing village Camogli

Camogli is one of the most beautiful and charming fishing villages I've been to anywhere in Europe. Tall, colourful buildings rise directly from the sea and the pace of life here is gloriously unhurried. Come in the morning, when the fishermen are still out and the gelato queues haven't started yet. When time - enjoy a slow lunch by the sea, listening to the sound of the waves crashing into the sand.

3. Stay somewhere extraordinary

The Italian Riviera has some remarkable places to stay. We stayed at Villa Gelsomino Exclusive House in Santa Margherita Ligure — a gorgeous boutique villa with sea views and a breakfast worth waking up early for. For real luxury, the Eight Hotel Portofino is a dream, and the grand Excelsior Palace Portofino Coast in Rapallo is one of the most atmospheric stays I know on this coast.

4. Visit Rapallo at Sunset

Find a bar or terrace in Rapallo with a view of the sea and the medieval castle, order a Aperol spritz, and simply sit. Watching the light shift from gold to amber while the old castle glows against the darkening sky is one of those Italian moments that feels almost too beautiful to be real.

Later, wander the old town, perhaps make a stop at one of the markets or sit down for a seafood plate. Endless opportunities!

5. Climb to the Castle above Portofino

The walk up from the harbour to Castello Brown above Portofino takes about twenty minutes and rewards you with spectacular views back over the bay and out across the open sea. Worth every step — especially in the quiet of the early morning. There's also a small cosy café there where you can enjoy the sea breeze.

6. Discover the slower towns

Portofino gets the fame; Bogliasco gets the peace. There are small villages dotted along this coastline that most visitors skip entirely — quieter, more local, more beautiful for their anonymity. Take the train one stop in either direction from your base and see what you find.

7. Eat the World's Best Pesto & Other Local Delicacies

Liguria is the birthplace of pesto, and eating it here — stirred through fresh trofie pasta, made with locally grown Genoese basil and good olive oil — is a genuine revelation. Even if you think you know pesto, you don't know it like this. Buy some with you home in a local shop, most stores sell the local pesto and it's a good souvenir to bring home. Another tip to try is the Mushroom Focaccia. Delicious!

8. A day (or three) in Cinque Terre

The five villages of Cinque Terre earn every superlative they receive. Take the train between them, hike the coastal paths, swim in clear water, drink local white wine and eat fresh seafood overlooking the cliffs. It's busy in high summer, but magical at any hour of the day. All of the towns are unique and worth lingering in.

9. Spend a day in Genova

Genova is the city most visitors to the Riviera miss entirely — and it's a genuine shame. The historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a labyrinth of medieval caruggi (narrow lanes), magnificent palaces and some of Italy's most characterful street food. Give it at least half a day.

10. Head up to the upper Riviera

The stretch of coast above Genova — towards Alassio, Albenga and beyond — is less famous and all the more lovely for it. For instance Alassio has a beautiful old town, a long sandy beach, and a very welcome absence of crowds. A perfect afternoon detour. Enjoy sunsets and dinners on the beach. Recipe for a perfect holiday. If you've got more time, I would recommend a day trip to Menton in France.

11. Ride the coastal train

Whether you're travelling between towns or simply sitting back and letting the scenery unfold, the railway along the Ligurian coast is one of Europe's great scenic routes. Cliffs, hidden coves, hilltop villages, the sea appearing and disappearing between the rocks — it's the kind of journey that reminds you exactly why train travel is the best travel.

Getting here by Train 

You know I'll always choose the train whenever I can, simply no better or more scenic way of travelling. There's a night train running directly from Germany to Genova and La Spezia — arriving fresh on the Riviera with no flight, no stress, just the gentle rhythm of a night on the rails. From France, take the coastal train and cross the border into Liguria. From Pisa or Florence, it's a simple, scenic connection.

Want more inspiration for Italy — itineraries, beautiful places to stay, downloadable maps and travel guides? My Italy Slow Travel Guide has everything you need.

Come find me on Instagram at @therailvoyage for slow travel inspiration from across Europe — including all the hidden Riviera corners I keep coming back to. 🚂