Switzerland by Train: A Slow 6-Day Itinerary from Lucerne to Lake Geneva
There is a moment, somewhere past Gstaad, when the GoldenPass Express crosses an invisible line. The station signs change from German to French, the chalets give way to vineyards and Lake Geneva appears below.
This is a journey across that line, taken slowly. From the old bridges of Lucerne to the mountain that will take your breath away, then across the whole country by panoramic train. It ends in the UNESCO terraced vineyards planted almost a thousand years ago. Six days, three hotels and time to stay a little longer than planned.
This journey was made in collaboration with Switzerland Tourism and Vaud Promotion. Every recommendation is one I'd return for.Some of the links below might be affiliate, and making a purchase through them contributes to our work and makes it possible for us to create free guides like these.
The Route Overview
Day 1 - Lucerne
Arrive in Lucerne. Coffee by the river, the old town & dinner with Alp view.
Day 2 - Mount Rigi
Europe's first mountain cogwheel train to the top of Mount Rigi. Here a cheese tasting and spa hotel above the clouds await.
Day 3 - Montreux
Cogwheel to Vitznau, boat across Lake Lucerne, Luzern–Interlaken Express, GoldenPass Express, passing snow-covered mountains and arriving to Montreux Riviera
Day 4 - Lavaux
Stay in Montreux, but take the train to Lavaux vineyards for wione tastinglunch in Vevey, fondue among the vines.
Day 5 - Jaman
Montreux by the lake, cogwheel train climbing the mountains to Jaman, dinner in the mountains above Caux.
Day 6 -Montreux
Slow breakfast & time for next voyage.
Day 1 · Lucerne, by the river
Take the train from Zurich straight to Lucerne, leave your bags and do nothing more ambitious than follow the river through the old town. Lucerne is experienced best slowly: strolling through cobblestone alleys, passing painted facades, old wooden bridges, a coffee by the lake.
Highlights
Stroll at sunset: along the lake promenade, across the wooden bridges and the bridges almost to yourself. Lucerne has a particular magic about it when the sun is setting.
Coffee by the river: Café Luz for the view and Kaffeekranz im Himmelrich for its own roastery.
Mill'Feuille: a romantic window dinner table looking over the Reuss.
Climb the Museggmauer (the wall) and enjoy the best view in town
Where to stay in Lucerne
For lakeside grandeur, choose the 19th-century landmark Hotel Schweizerhof or the Grand Hotel National, where César Ritz was handed the sceptre in 1877. For an easy, stylish base, the AMERON Hotel Flora sits 150 m from the Chapel Bridge and 300 m from the train station.
Day 2 · Mount Rigi, Queen of the mountains
Rigi has drawn travellers since the 1800s, and its Vitznau line was the first mountain railway in Europe. Take the train from Lucerne to Arth-Goldau and change to the cogwheel train to Rigi Kulm. Then spend the rest of the day on the mountain and preferably stay there to fully enjoy all hours of the day.
Highlights
The cogwheel ride up from Arth-Goldau to the summit at Rigi Kulm. Views you won't forget.
Alp Chäserenholz, a short walk away, for a tasting of the cheese made on the alp.
Lunch at Restaurant Lok 7 at Rigi Staffel.
The MineralBad & Spa, spa with an outdoor pool facing the Alps, connected to the hotel Rigi Kaltbad. Go at end of the afternoon.
Where to stay on Mount Rigi
Hotel Rigi Kaltbad. Sleep on the mountain, above the clouds, enjoy a sothing spa hour with an outdoor pool with Alp scenery. Once the last train goes down, Rigi is yours and the memories stay forever.
Day 3 · Across Switzerland on the GoldenPass Express to Montreux
The most beautiful travel day of the trip, and an easy one. Ride the cogwheel train down to Vitznau and cross Lake Lucerne by boat back to the city. In the afternoon take two of Switzerland's great panoramic trains.
Highlights
The morning boat across Lake Lucerne from Vitznau, after the cogwheel ride down.
The Luzern–Interlaken Express over the Brünig Pass, past a string of turquoise lakes.
Prestige Class on the GoldenPass Express. Panoramic windows, snow-covered alps and a glass in hand. Slow travel at its finest. You are also seated behind the driver for most of the journey, making the voyage even more scenic. The Prestige class needs a reservation.
The descent to Lake Geneva, as the line spirals down towards Montreux in the late light.
Where to stay in Montreux
For Belle Époque grandeur, stay at the Grand Hotel Suisse Majestic, built in 1870 and in front of the railway station in the heart of Montreux, or a short ride along the lake at Vevey’s spectacularly well-preserved 1868 Grand Hôtel du Lac. For something more relaxed and full of character, Le Tralala is a charming boutique hotel in a 17th-century house in the old town, with each room dedicated to an artist from the Montreux Jazz Festival
For more on the region, visit vaud.ch and montreuxriviera.com.
Day 4 · Lavaux Vineyards & Vevey
Monks began cutting Lavaux's terraces into the hillside in the 11th century. Today there are about 10,000 of them, and UNESCO has listed them since 2007. Try the Chasselas, the delicate white wine of this coast.
Highlights
A tasting at Cave Champ de Clos in Chexbres, high above the water.
The walk down through the vines to the village of Saint-Saphorin, a couple of kilometres and almost all downhill.
Lunch at Ma Cocotte, Vevey's beloved brasserie, with a terrace on the lake. Afterwards, walk along the quay to Charlie Chaplin's statue; he spent his last 25 years above the town.
Fondue in a barrel at Domaine Vitis Musicalis: dinner inside a converted wine barrel, looking out over the vines. Book ahead.
Day 5 · Montreux, Jaman & Dinner above the clouds
Montreux has drawn artists for two centuries. Queen recorded here, and the jazz festival has filled the quays every July since 1967. Out of season the town is quieter, and more beautiful for it.
Highlights
Les Planches, the old town's cobbled alleys and flowered waterfront below, which run for almost seven kilometres along the lake.
The cogwheel train to Jaman, about an hour of switchbacks, then cake at La Buvette de Jaman, opposite the station. We found the season's first snow here.
Dinner at Le Coucou, a chalet at 1,150 metres above Caux. Step off at Haut-de-Caux on the way down and book a table facing the lake for sunset.
With an extra morning: the Château de Chillon, on a rock at the water's edge.
Day 6 · One last breakfast
Take your time. Montreux has direct trains along the lake towards Lausanne and Geneva, so leaving is easy, and the lake keeps you company for most of the way.
With more days: add the Belle Époque train on the GoldenPass line, the Château de Chillon on the water's edge, or the full ride up to Rochers-de-Naye.
Things to know before you go
How to get around
The Swiss Travel Pass covers almost every step and would be my recommendation for a trip like this, as the pass makes life simple. Would recommend a 3 or 4 days pass for this trip. Find all passes here and which trains are covered below.
Mount Rigi: included.
Luzern–Interlaken Express and GoldenPass Express: the fare is included. Seat reservations and the Prestige Class supplement are extra, and Prestige Class must be reserved.
Montreux to Jaman: free as far as Haut-de-Caux, then 50% off for the rest of the way up.
Lake boats, regional trains and city transport: included.
When to go
Late September and October bring the grape harvest and golden vineyards, the slowest and most beautiful version of this route. From late November, Montreux Noël turns the lakeside into a Christmas market (20 November to 24 December in 2026). In summer, swim in Lake Geneva after the vineyard walk.
What to pack
This trip is mostly city based, except for Rigi and Jaman. For these locations, pack comfortable shoes and work with layers as it can get quite cold. If you travel during autumn or winter, bring a trenchcoat or a warmer coat. If you travel in the summer, temperatures are usually warm.
My typical bag structure is one carry on, a medium shoulder bag and a small hand bag. This way your pieces are small and can fit into most trains, and you have a medium bag to bring during day trips and a smaller purse for dinner evenings.
For city breaks, my personal packing list always includes one pair of comfortable shoes, one pair of fancier shoes outdoors, such as loafers, and perhaps one pair of heels. A couple of suit pants, a couple of long and short tops, sweaters, a shirt, a blazer, a couple of skirts in different lenghts, one jacket, preferably one that can be turned in-side-out, that way you have two in one. A notebook is a must, my camera, powerbank and accessories to mix up outfits. Bring colours and pieces that can be matched in many different ways as you want to keep luggage to a minimum, especially when taking the train around Switzerland.
For this itinerary, bring a swimsuit for the spa. However, even if you don't visit the spa.. I love to bring hygiene products that feels luxurious, in that way I can arrange my own little spa session at the hotel whenever I travel. Find my hotel travel essentials here.
Until the next journey
Switzerland rewards the traveller who stays a little longer than planned. Pick one day from this itinerary, give it twice the time, and let the trains do the rest.
Want more slow travel inspiration? Join +450,000 slow travellers at @therailvoyage, daily travel inspiration at instagram, youtube, tiktok or pinterest. And don't miss signing up for our newsletter below. Until next time!
Comments